Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland Glasgow Section Newsletter  -  January……March

Dear Member,

Happy New Year to you all!  Hope it will be a good one for everyone!

Pub meets are happening every fortnight from Wednesday 9^th January in the Ben Nevis (Argyle St, Kelvingrove Park).  They are quite popular and there is always great live music from well-known folk musicians.  Tuesday is the night for meeting in the Indoor Climbing Wall, Ibrox.  There is an <em>exciting</em> and full meets list included, recent meets have been very well attended so make sure you call early to avoid disappointment!

Many thanks to the contributors for their meet reports.

I look forward to seeing you all throughout the year!

Vicky Stewart

Secretary

January 2002

Past Meets

25-26th August:  Naismith Hut, Elphin

Members Present:  Richard Lloyd, Dave Eaton, Claire Gilchrist, Gwen Wells, Ian Thomson, Iain Cummings, Vicky Stewart

Guests Attending:  Angus Grossart, Simon Gay

No report was received.

(My memory throws forward the visual image of  Dave, whiteboard, Darts v Showaddywaddy - for & against list, and the sounds of Broom FM!  Don’t ask!

Aah, it’s all coming back to me now….arriving in Glasgow airport before Richard had even left Gatwick, the biggest bottle of wine (Dave), a real keg of beer (me!), someone sick on the top bunk (not me nor Dave), Edich nan Clach Geala, Meall nan Ceapraichean, Beinn Dearg, Am Faochagach, the worst sandwiches ever made, sorry thrown together, ok just thrown (em, that would be me!), sunshine, there was even a friendly dog everyone liked!….Ed. )

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8-9^th September:  Badagoush, Speyside

Members Present:  Vicky Stewart, Richard Jewell

 

Guests Attending:  Jo Thurlow, Pete Greene, Jen West, Robyn Frew, Paul Atherton, Mairi MacLeod, Bridget, Annmarie, Polly, Claudia, Brian, Ben, Sharon

‘Let’s book somewhere we’ve never been before’ cried the mass.  So we did and no members showed any interest when the weekend arrived.  A friend happened to be looking for ideas for somewhere to have a 30^th birthday bash that would accommodate a lot of people and I had the perfect place in mind so that‘s what happened!

On Saturday there was a mass ascent of A’Chailleach, many decided that was enough for them while Richard, Jo, Pete, Claudia, Mairi and myself carried on to Carn Sgulain (Monadh Liath).  It was my third time up there and I was damned if I was going back down again without ‘visiting’ the latter mountain! To be fair to the others who just came up for the birthday party and a ‘walk’ (!), I do seem to recall some severe weather for that time of year.  (What am I talking about, of course there is severe weather at any time of year in this country!).

Sunday was a blank.

Written by Vicky Stewart

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22-24 September:  Rum

Members Present:  Ian Thomson, Niel Craig, Dave Eaton, David Lawson, Scott Stewart, Vicky Stewart, Jeremy Morris, John Porter

Guests Attending:  Angus Grossart, Mairi MacLeod, Rose Harvey, Jürgen Kaufman, Lucila , David Bishop

Jeremy picked me up promptly at 7:30am and we made good time up to Mallaig, where we found most of the others already in the Fishermen’s Mission. To my disappointment, I was informed that we were too late for breakfast and too late for lunch, and the bacon was finished, so I made do with an unappetising cheese roll washed down with a mug of tea.

Back at the car park, Vicky, Angus and Mairi turned up. Mairi had brought a bag of coal and was looking for someone to carry it in to Dibidil. While I looked the other way, Jeremy boldly loaded it on top of his sac, and we set off for the boat.

The crossing was calm and pleasant, but as we arrived at low tide, going ashore at Kinloch was a lengthy and complicated business. First, all the passengers and about half the baggage were decanted into a smaller boat, which took us closer inshore, where we were met by an inflatable dinghy, which then took the passengers and finally the baggage ashore in a sequence of shuttles. The intermediate boat then sailed back out to pick up the remaining baggage.

Tiring of being attacked by midges, those whose sacs had arrived headed off for Dibidil, leaving the rest of us to suffer for about another hour. At last we set off, and walked round to Dibidil, arriving early in the evening.

In the bothy, the coal was put to good use, a good fire was soon blazing, and several fine malts were sampled.

The following morning was overcast but dry. Ian, Niel, Dave Eaton, Rose, Vicky, Mairi, Angus, and David Bishop walked over to Papadil. The latter four returned to Dibidil carrying firewood, while the others continued round the coast to Harris, enjoying fine views to the Hebrides, Coll and neighbouring Small Isles and sighting numerous deer, goats and a pair of sea eagles with great wings like barn doors eclipsing the sun.

Meanwhile, Scott, Dave Lawson, Jeremy, Jürgen, Lucila and I set off up the steep slopes of Sgurr nan Gillean. At the top, Jürgen and Lucila headed West to Ruinsival and thence to Harris, while the rest of us continued on to Ainshval. Descending steeply towards Bealach an Fuarain, I foolishly tried to lower my sac down an awkward step which I found a bit daunting with this huge weight on my back. Predictably, it went tumbling down the scree below, spilling out various items. Seeing what had happened, Scott turned back to help me retrieve my gear, and I hastily crammed it all back in and set off again, meeting up with the others on the Bealach.

We pressed on, taking in Trollaval, Askival and finally Barkeval, in fine weather, which was so still that we were bothered by high altitude midges on the summits. Finally we descended into Atlantic Corrie, and down Glen Harris, arriving at the coast in semi darkness. Tired after a long day, I found crossing the river bed just before our camp site a sting in the tail. After a late dinner, I fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the rocks below.

The next morning was bright and clear, revealing what a superb spot we were in. On three sides steep cliffs fell away to black rocks and white water; to the South was a fine view past the monument to the Cuillin.

At breakfast, Lucila introduced some of us to yerba mate, a bitter brew which I could get to like.

Scott, David Lawson, Jeremy and I headed for Ard Nev and Orval, then descended to the coast South of Sgorr Mhor, enjoying fine views over the cliffs and out to Canna. We then headed inland, skirting Bloodstone Hill, and down to Guirdil, where the others from Harris had already arrived. Dave Eaton and Rose had walked round inland by the path, while Niel, Ian, Lucila and Jürgen had been round by the coast and over Bloodstone Hill, sighting a golden eagle and another sea eagle on the way. Some time later, the party from Dibidil arrived, having walked round via Kinloch.

On arrival, I was glad to settle down on a chair outside the hut and get a brew on, but Jeremy, with his usual boundless energy, immediately set to work sawing some logs for the fire, before rushing off to throw himself in the nearby burn. Refreshed, he next headed off with his fishing pole, returning in triumph some time later with an impressive catch of several pollock and a single mackerel, which were grilled on a fire outside the hut.

Later in the afternoon, several large goats with huge curved horns like ibex appeared, and in the evening, a fine stag kept an eye on us from a hillock overlooking the hut.

The bothy was spacious and pleasant, its ceiling hung with numerous large orchidaceous ornaments, of the kind usually seen draping the sides of fishing boats. The main evening’s entertainment was toasting marshmallows on a long metal rod over the fire.

On the Monday morning, we walked back to Kinloch, passing, soon after the start, a group of long-horned goats sunning themselves on a clifftop. We stopped for lunch at the head of Kinloch Glen, where Ian and Niel amazed me by producing, at this late stage, such delicacies as tomatoes, bananas, oatcakes and blue cheese, from sacs which looked about half the size and weight of mine.

Arriving at Kinloch, we found that the boat’s arrival had been brought forward, no doubt to catch the tide. Departure was therefore an easier procedure than arrival. We reached Mallaig in time to drive home by a reasonable hour, well pleased with an outstanding meet in better weather than we’d had all summer.

Written by John Porter

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5-6^th October:  The Retro Meet at Suardalan Bothy

 

Thespians present: Neil Craig, Iain Cumming, Dave Eaton and Ian Thomson.

The following script has been produced by Ian Thomson. Parental guidance recommended (contains violence, simulated sex, substance abuse, offensive lyrics and nudity):

The cast of Full Tweed Jacket assembled at Kirkton studios on Friday evening. Equity, sorry iniquity, cards being inspected on arrival.

Dr. Cumming arrived looking like Mallory’s ghost and after the hilarity died down, was restrained just in time as he attempted to parade around the new wooden studio floor in his tricouni nailed boots.

Although an epic of Biblical proportions had been envisaged, the numbers were depleted due to general apathy and various lame excuses, including, I’ve got a sick note and I’ve no transport and don’t fancy walking to Glenelg. The lack of supported actresses was bemoaned. To be an authentic retro meet, neither women nor alcohol should have been present. Little persuasion was required to fill the car with spirits, wines and beers! 

The advantages of an early departure for location filming soon became apparent as we approached Crianlarich at 18:00. However, passage through the village was prevented due to the filming of Police Academy 3. The plot centring round a small spillage of diesel under the railway bridge and the inept antics of Central Scotland Police.

Mission Impossible? Not for the JMCS Bravehearts. A swift about-turn and we were off. The heavens opened as we left Arrochar and the downpour continued all the way to Glen Shiel. Tyndrum was reached at 20:15 with another 80 miles on the clock. A food stop in Fort William was enlightened by Iain running down the cobbled High Street in a shower of sparks. As we sheltered in a shop doorway, a drunk walked past , staring agape at the spectre of Ben Nevis. He returned with eyes wide open and turned away, rushing off to forego the Jacobite for the Rechabites.

As we parked in the forest the witching hour had gone, as had the rain. Iain relaxed as the rest of the troupe changed into tweed breeches and woolly shirts. The full moon was high and the night balmy. A short walk saw us arrive at the bothy to the sound of roaring stags and glimpses of fluttering bats. The relative comfort factors of heavy tweed and lycra had become obvious and the weekend looked likely to become an episode of The Itchy and Scratchy Show. The bothy was empty and tidy and a good attempt was made on the liquor mountain. The Long Good Friday indeed.

A beautiful morning followed, the primuses were soon purring and an artery-furring fried breakfast was enjoyed on the patio. Iain headed for Glen Beag. He had borrowed the nailed boots from John Goldie and they had only been worn once in the last fifty years. He found the walk a Broch Too Far and returned to the hut. The supporting cast meanwhile had gone Blazing up the Saddle. There the skies darkened on the summit and a quick descent was made into Glen More as the rain started. Ian and Dave’s retro cagoules were found wanting. The good weather returned after an hour and the Rainmen reached Suardalan as the sun dipped over Beinn Sgritheall.

The lack of smoke was concerning. Iain however was at home and with forty years as a fuels chemist, had constructed an excellent smoke-free fire. His early return had allowed him to re-enact Goldilocks and the Three Beers, sampling all the drink in the cottage. The Longest Day turned into the longest night, with copious amounts of  Scottish food and drink consumed. Whisky Galore in fact.

At some point in the proceedings the awards ceremony was held. It was no contest really, not when you have a 95 year old tent, 1947 ice axe, 1930’s maps and an entire museum display in the middle room of the bothy. The lifetime achievement award went to Iain - 40 of the finest Havana cigars. Just as well no one else won. Dave won the best safari suit and lantern categories. Neil won the worst passport photograph and invisible mending nominations. Ian won the oldest rucksack and best dinner awards. All appreciated their liquid prizes.   

Sunday was again warm and sunny and after a lazy brunch outside we wandered round to see the brochs before heading home. All agreed the inaugural retro meet a success and set the foundations for an annual themed meet around Halloween - the Trick or Treat Meet. Ladies and liquor required to ensure it goes with a bang. See you there next year.

p.s. The statement in brackets was simply an advertising ploy to ensure you read this article. Behaviour of that sort would not be tolerated on a JMCS meet, would it?

Written by Ian Thomson

(Check out the web site for the photographs privided by Iain Cumming! )

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19-20^th October:  Muir of Inverey, Braemar

Members Present:  Gwen Wells, Richard Jewell, Andy Sommerville, Neil Wilkie, Donald Ballance

Guests Attending:   Duncan Wallace, Carol Shields, Jo Thurlow

No report received.

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9-10^th November:  Lagangarbh, Glencoe, AGM & Dinner Meet

Members Present:  Scott Stewart, Richard Jewell, Mark Evans, Alasdair Reid, John Porter, Jeremy Morris, Paul Hammond, Donald Ballance, Andy Sommerville, Neil Wilkie, Richard Lloyd, Ann MacDonald,  Colwyn Jones, Claire Gilchrist, Alex Haddow, Alex Haddow (Snr), Dave Eaton, Iain Cummings, Alan Thrippleton, Johnny Loch, Alan Watt, David Blackwood, Vicky Stewart, Alan McLean, Alan Watt, Ian Cranston

Guests Attending:  Tegwen Northam, Jeurgen Kaufmann, Lucille, Carol Shields,   Rose Harvey, Claudia, Robyn Frew,  Stephen W, Gary Longhurst, Jo Thurlow, Annmarie, Tom Gilchrist

There was a great turnout at this years’ AGM/Dinner meet.  The weather was the ‘Glencoe usual’. One party; Dave, Richard, Andy, Donald and Tegwen, enjoyed a brisk day on Buachaille Etive Beag.  Another group; Jeurgen, Lucille, Johnny, myself and someone I just cannot remember (sorry whoever you are!) enjoyed a brisk day on Buachaille Etive Mor.  I do remember Johnny and that mystery person completing the traverse along to Stob na Broige.

The outgoing President (Dave) made a great speech and presented Alex with a new feature for Coruisk Hut which no other club hut has - a permanent wooden placque commemorating the ‘Coruisk Bar’ now officially open!

We enjoyed a great slide show from Tom Gilchrist who provided wonderful pictures of Afghanistan and interesting information about the area.

Sunday was a blank.  Again.

Written by Vicky Stewart

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30-1^st December:   Raeburns Hut, Speyside

Members Present: Paul Hammond, Richard Jewell, Jeremy Morris

Guest: Jo Thurlow

Due to a poor weather forecast, it was just four of us who assembled in the hotel in Dalwhinnie on Friday night for the obligatory games of pool, before heading to the hut.  Someone’s peaceful evening by the fire was ruined by the ensuing curry-cooking activities, but he did sample the meal before retiring and leaving the fire to us.

Saturday was windy but rainless, save for light snow showers on those up the hills.  Richard and Jo biked down to Laggan and over the pass to Glen Banchor, inspecting the bothy and falling into various puddles and bogs on the way.  They returned via Kingussie and General Wade’s Road to complete the round.  Jeremy and Paul headed up Sgairneach Mhor and Beinn Udlamain, forgetting there was a burn in the way and having to ford the icy waters bootless.  A light dusting of snow and occasional views across Loch Ericht made up for the uncomfortably high winds, and chasing both grey and white hares and flocks of ptarmigan along the summit ridge kept us amused when the clag came in.  The long winter evening was passed in the usual manner, but with the addition of the game of “Rapi-dough” which caused much frustration, amusement and competitiveness amongst the players (workers vs students – the score was 2-0 to the students, whose minds have not yet been dulled by the tedium of gainful employment).

A sharp frost overnight encouraged Paul and Jeremy to make an optimistic trip to the Northern Corries on Sunday.  From the view driving up to the car park, it was obvious there was little snow, save for some aesthetic patches under the black cliffs.  Enthusiasm could not be entirely killed off, however, so we trudged into Sneachda with a few other optimistic climbers.  The only patch of snow visible was high up Jacobs Ladder, which was duly ascended on frozen turf and water ice, most of the scree being frozen in place and rendered harmless.  After the 10m of snow at the top had been climbed with appropriate respect, an escape was made up the crumbling headwall to an audience on the plateau (“come and look at these idiots!”).  Still, it was fun, and Paul got to blunt his new axe. 

Richard and Jo took their bikes up from Kinloch Laggan to Loch Pattack, enjoying the crisp day, and appreciating the opportunity to cycle up and down hills, in contrast to the day before.  Overall a fine weekend, with the promise that winter is on its way.

Written by Jeremy Morris

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21-23^rd December:  Lagangarbh, Glencoe

No report received.

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11-13^th January:  CIC Hut, Ben Nevis

Members Present:  John Bickerdike, Simon Gay, Richard Jewell, Colwyn Jones, John Porter. 

Guest:  M Dent.

Leaving an agreeably dry, warm Inverness at 18.00 hours on Friday night I got a dent in the passenger door of my car.  However, there was no cause for concern as it was Matt Dent our token JMCS guest for the weekend.  As we headed west the weather steadily deteriorated until murky rain greeted us at the Ben car park.

The Allt a’ Mhuillin was a giant, foaming, roaring, cataract as we strode purposefully south up into the dark, northern corries of Ben Nevis.  Hill fog enveloped us in a thick blanket, blotting out even the sounds of the growling Allt.  Not once did we falter but plunged deeper into the murk.  No snow anywhere and the ground appeared to slope at unexpected angles to catch the unwary.  Right on cue the water pipe appeared on the right and a wide sweep of the headtorch beam showed the dark, brooding outline of the CIC hut.  Salvation, we were not destined to spend eternity walking blindly in a fog bound hell, or are we? Was this disorientating hell not just a typical day in Scotland?

The new SMC key actually worked this time and we were soon inside bathed in the eerie glow of the sustainably generated fluorescent light.  We emptied the drowned and rotting mice from the watering cans and made a warm tasty cuppa.  The first hut occupants in 2002.

Sometime later, once the hut was warm and bright, the B team (Bickerdike & Jewell) struggled in having faced unknown terrors on the way up – I mean John’s navigation technique.  Without the hut lights to guide them, they might still be out there!  For it was dirty weather and one member (or was it a guest?) was heard to say that he wished his girlfriend was half as dirty as the weather.  After a generous nightcap, we turned in looking forward to a sporting day on The Ben.

Enjoying a lengthy and tasty breakfast we preferred not to venture outside to view the conditions.  However, someone’s bladder eventually prompted a reaction and the verbal report was of dry and clear weather.  After much uncharacteristic prolonged procrastination John and I headed off to climb Castle Ridge.  A fine ridge, which can be enlivened by taking all the difficulties super direct.  Perhaps the best summer conditions I have climbed this wee gem!  We then wandered along the corrie edge to the summit noting the exit prints of an enthusiastic pair (Matt & Richard) who had enjoyed the soft, wet snow in No. 2 gully.   They also found some soft wet snow on Raeburns piss easy route and like us descended a scree filled No. 4 gully back to the hut. One member found a hat and the other a platypus!

Supper was a lengthy and tasty affair with much talk about whores on a mule!  Soon afterwards Simon Gay & John Porter’s arrival coincided with the serving of Bombay Potatoes.  John was very fetching after changing into Jack Wolfskin slippers, (how does he do that!)  His metonymic expertise exemplified by the discourse on Raeburns mensal skills. A fine display of linear types in communication processes (don’t worry folks, you had to be there). 

Sunday dawned warm and Marti (Wet, Wet, Wet) and put paid to any fawning rictus anticipating sustained ultramontane activity.  After a spirited attempt to climb by the Saturday swagmen, Fort William superdirect was the unanimous route and I got home in time to tidy the garden in the wan afternoon sunshine.   Just another typical JMCS meet!

Post script.

Some information for the mendicant who took my Charlet-Moser ice screw.  It has an undistinguished history, being bought in MEC in Vancouver in spring 2000.  The reason it looks so new is that it has been neglected, as it is not as easy to place as the Black Diamond screws it was with.   In fact, I’m glad to get rid of the burden and next time you’ll know to steal one of the good ones!

Written by Colwyn Jones

Winter Courses

Mark Evans (JMCS member) is running winter courses and is offering a 15% discount for JMCS members and family on courses.   Please check further details on his website:  www.InspiredAdventures.co.uk.

There could be a possibility of a course specifically for JMCS members if there was sufficient interest and a suitable date for all interested.

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Subscription News 104 members now! It’s that time of year again! Would you please complete your subscription form and enclose a cheque for £12 and send to: Andrew Sommerville, Stronvay, Station Rd, Langbank, Renfrewshire, PA14 6YA.

Club Officers 2001/02      Office Bearers for 2002 were elected as below at the AGM: President                               Alex Haddow Vice President                       Scott Stewart Honorary V.P.                      Donald Ballance Honorary President             David Lawson Treasurer                              Andrew Sommerville Secretary                               Vicky Stewart Meets Secretary                    David Lawson Coruisk Hut Bookings         Alan Dunn Coruisk Hut Custodian       Alex Haddow Please refer to the club membership handbook for addresses and phone numbers of the above.